Getting an oil change for your vehicle is one of the single most important things you can do for your vehicle. Staying on top of it is the difference between a vehicle running horrible after five years and a vehicle running like new after ten years.

Your average motor oil does a lot for a vehicle. They serve the same purpose as water does for the human body. It lubricates, regulates temperature, and cleans and suspends all the bad stuff that you do not want floating around your engine.

The same goes for motor oil. Your engine is comprised of different metal components going up and down at thousands of rates per minute due to internal mini explosions. Oil lubricates these metal pieces so that they do not wear out.

Can you imagine that heat caused by the pistons going up and down and all those explosions. Its massive! If not for the motor oil in your car than your engine would quickly overheat and blow several gaskets in several seconds. Motor oil is specifically designed to hold and transfer heat inside your engine.

A huge service that motor oil does for your car is suspending sludge and and metal shavings that are in your engine. A lot of grime builds us in your engine and oil cleans and carries the grime out of your engine and to your filter.

Its really not an expensive service to get. You can do an oil change yourself but many have found that its more work than its worth. You have to get the right tools and many new vehicles require special ones. You have to jack the vehicle up. Oil changes are extremely messy and oil can get all over your garage or driveway. And finally, you have to dispose of the oil which can be no easy tasks unless the local auto parts store takes it which many have stopped doing.

If you live in big town you might want to check and see if there is a mobile oil change service in your area. Many people do not even know they exist. These on-site oil change companies will come to your office and service your car while you are there. Some require a certain number of vehicles and some only do big fleets so you want to check with them first. But if you can get in than it takes all the guesswork and hassle out of getting an oil change. You just have to call them up and set up an appointment.

Stay on top of your oil changes. It will keep your vehicle running like new. Motor oil is the lifeblood of any engine and far too many people go thousands of miles past their vehicle’s proper interval. Its best to go 3,000 miles for any gas engine and 5,000 for diesels. Doing this will make sure you get a lot of good years out of your very expensive investment.

If you’re looking to determine what your best oil change intervals should be, the best method is via oil analysis. Of course, on small vehicles which require only 4 or 5 quarts of oil, the cost of the oil analysis is nearly as much as a complete oil change.

Of course, the end result is that most folks won’t ante up for a professional oil analysis. However, they might be willing to perform their own “oil analysis”, if they knew how to do it. Of course, such an analysis won’t give you readings as accurate and precise as results from a lab, but it can give you a pretty decent understanding of how well your oil is holding up.

In the next few paragraphs you’ll find detailed instructions for one of six DIY oil analysis tests that you can use to establish the condition of your oil and whether it’s ready for a change.

You might also want to consider learning a bit more regarding oils and filters in general. You might find the following sites useful in this quest.

- No More Oil Changes – Everything you need to know about oil, but didn’t know to ask

- The Motor Oil Evaluator –

- A Motor Oil Forum for discussion of motor oils

The Business Card Test

Putting this simple test into practice can reveal a plethora of potential oil problems that might necessitate draining of the oil: build-up of condensation, contamination with anti-freeze, high particulate levels, dispersant additive deterioration, fuel in your oil, products of oxidation and sludge build-up.

You should place a drop of used oil on the surface of chromatography paper (good heavy white card stock works pretty well too) – make sure the engine/oil is WARM (not HOT). Place your white paper/card someplace where it will be suspended parallel to the ground and so that the oil drop area will be touching nothing – on either side of the card. For instance, if you’re using stiff card stock or a stiff business card (which you really should be) you could set the card across the top of a coffee cup.

You want to be patient and wait for the paper or card to absorb the oil drop completely which might take awhile. Once all of the oil has been drawn into the pores of the paper you should be able to begin evaluating the condition of your oil.

- A colorless circle or somewhat yellowish outer ring = “good” oil.

- A dense, dark deposit zone = Dispersant additive failure

- A black, pasty area = Anti-freeze in your engine oil

- Center of circle dark with distinct outside ring = Severe oxidation

- A dark center with surrounding rings = Fuel in oil, Fuel dilution

Information for this test featured in: Fitch, J.C., “The Lubrication Field Test and Inspection Guide”, Noria Corporation 2000

The article shown below will describe for you one from a total of six incredibly useful oil analysis tests you can use to quickly establish the continued viability of your oil, without ever paying a single dime to an oil analysis lab.

The crackle test is valuable for establishing whether water build-up from condensation is an issue. Typically, you will be most susceptible to water build-up in your oil if you are a short trip driver and/or if your vehicle sits for long periods without being run.

Why a water test? Because water doesn’t lubricate very well and because water build-up leads to acid build-up. Acid causes corrosion , and that can lead to pitting. Of course, you don’t want pitting in your engine. Even a high TBN extended drain synthetic oil like AMSOIL can eventually be overcome by water/acid build-up. So, as a general rule, you’d probably want to know if you were getting water in your oil BEFORE acid build-up depletes the acid fighting additives in your oil. For this reason, I recommend performing the crackle test.

However, if using the blotter spot test prior to the crackle test shows that you have fuel in your engine oil, performing the crackle test will likely give inconclusive results, since the fuel in your oil will “throw off” your results. This is the reason that the blotter spot test (business card test) is most often performed PRIOR TO the crackle test. If you’ve got fuel in your oil, you may already need to change out your oil, and the results of the crackle test will not be clear anyway.

The test goes something like this: place a small amount of oil onto a hotplate of some type (just a few drops is plenty). You want to set the hotplate to a temp greater than 212 degrees F (the boiling point of water). Since motor oil won’t typically be volatile till 350 degrees F or higher, setting the temp of the hotplate anywhere between 250 and 300 should work well.

Listen for the sound of the crackle. At 300+ degrees, you should soon hear the crackle of the boiling water, that is IF you’ve got water in your motor oil. The more oil you place on the plate, the longer it will take the water to boil, so keep the amount to a minimum.

A professional oil analysis will be more accurate in that it will tell you if the level of water in the oil is a problem and what the level is, but the the DIY crackle test detailed here is a good, cheap way to establish water ingression.

The best way to establish realistic oil change intervals is via oil analysis. The problem is, a complete oil analysis can easily run you about as much as a 5 quart oil change – with petroleum oil anyway.

So, for many motorists, the better option is to perform a “Poor Man’s Oil Analysis”. It is not likely to give you results as accurate and precise as the ones you’d get from a lab, but you will get a pretty decent notion of just how effectively your engine oil is holding up.

In the next few paragraphs you will discover the complete details for performing one of six DIY oil analysis tests which can be used to establish the condition of your oil and whether it’s ready for a change.

You might also want to consider learning a bit more regarding lubricants and filters in general. Quite alot of information can be gleaned from the following sites.

- No More Oil Changes – tons of motor oil information

- The Motor Oil Evaluator – motor oil comparison specifications

- A Motor Oil Forum for discussion of motor oils

The Business Card Test

This test reveals oxidation products, sludge formation, dispersancy failure, glycol contamination, water contamination, fuel dilution, and high levels of particles.

You want to place a drop of used oil on the surface of chromatography paper (good heavy white card stock works pretty well too) – make sure the engine/oil is WARM (not HOT). Place your white paper/card suspended horizontally above a table or countertop and so that the oil drop area will be touching nothing – on either side of the card. For instance, if you’re using stiff card stock or a stiff business card (which you really should be) you could lay two pencils down on a table (parallel to each other) and set the card with each end sitting on one of the pencils.

Make sure that the oil spot is entirely dry before trying to evaluate the appearance of the oil drop. At the point where the paper/card has completely drawn all the oils into itself it is then time to begin evaluating the condition of your oil.

- A colorless circle or slight yellowish outer ring = “good” oil.

- A dense, dark deposit zone = Dispersant additive failure

- A black, pasty area = Anti-freeze in your motor oil

- Center of circle dark with distinct outer ring = Severe oxidation

- Center of circle dark with outer rings = Fuel in oil,Fuel dilution

Information for this test featured in: Fitch, J.C., “The Lubrication Field Test and Inspection Guide”, Noria Corporation 2000

It is best to rely on oil analysis to determine your oil change interval. Of course, on many passenger car vehicles that only take 4-6 quarts of motor oil, the price of the oil analysis can be nearly as much as a complete oil change.

So, for some, the best thing is to execute a “Poor Man’s Oil Analysis”. It is not likely to provide information as accurate and precise as those derived from an oil analysis lab, but it can give you a pretty decent notion of just how effectively your engine oil is handling the extremes within your engine.

In the next few paragraphs you’ll find detailed instructions for one of six DIY oil analysis tests that you can use to establish the condition of your oil and whether it’s ready for a change.

You might also want to consider learning a bit more about oils and filters in general. You might find the following sites useful in this quest.

- The Motor Oil Bible – tons of motor oil information

- The Motor Oil Evaluator – motor oil comparison specifications

- A Motor Oil Forum for discussion of motor oils

The Spot Test

Putting this simple test into practice can unveil a plethora of possible oil degredation issues that might lead to the necessity for draining of the oil: build-up of condensation, contamination with anti-freeze, high particulate levels, dispersant additive deterioration, fuel in your oil, products of oxidation and sludge build-up.

You want to place a drop of used oil on the surface of chromatography paper (good heavy white card stock works pretty well too) – make sure the engine/oil is WARM (not HOT). Place your white paper/card suspended horizontally above a table or countertop and so that the oil drop area will be touching nothing – on either side of the card. For instance, if you’re using stiff card stock or a stiff business card (which you really should be) you could lay two pencils down on a table (parallel to each other) and set the card with each end sitting on one of the pencils.

Wait until the oil drop is no longer moist. Use the list below to evaluate the condition of your oil based on the DRY oil spot.

- A colorless circle or slight yellowish outer ring = “good” oil.

- A dense, dark deposit zone = Dispersant additive failure

- A black, pasty area = Anti-freeze in your motor oil

- Center of circle dark with distinct outside ring = Severe oxidation

- A dark center with surrounding rings = Fuel in oil, Fuel dilution

Information for this test featured in: Fitch, J.C., “The Lubrication Field Test and Inspection Guide”, Noria Corporation 2000

There is a point at which a vehicle owner discovers that not all types and brands of oil are of equal quality. It is at that point that the individual decides that there is a “perfect oil” out there for their vehicle and they begin the quest to find it. So, it seems rather important to determine just HOW to find that “perfect oil”. This article and the follow-up articles I’ll be writing soon will be focused on that particular goal.

Magical Motor Oil Utopia

Of course, many people assume as they pursue their “ultimate motor oil” that there is necessarily a “best oil” that will fit everyone’s needs. Some SUPER oil that will serve everyone perfectly. But, the extraordinary engine oil paradise that they are looking for is a legend at best. It simply doesn’t exist|cannot be found.

It really is not at all possible for a single oil to meet the needs of all applications. I’m sure that’s probably obvious to most. But, it is also not possible for a single BRAND of motor oil to perfectly fit the needs of every user. For instance, although a premium synthetic motor oil like AMSOIL, Redline or NEO may be of higher quality than most, that does NOT make any of them the ultimate choice for all users.

Thus, you’ll need to carefully consider your situation and application and what motor oil characteristics will prove to be most useful to your particular needs (such as low temperature or high temperature operation, long oil drains, low internal friction for improved fuel economy, better wear protection, low volatility, etc.). Once these characteristics have been established, then begin looking for the oils that best offer those lubrication qualities.

If you don’t follow a similar research pattern, it is really not possible to make a truly educated decision with regards to proper oil selection for your application. And, thus, you will likely end up with a lubricant that is not meeting your needs in the best way possible.

Petroleum, blend or synthetic, 5w30 vs 5w40, Redline, AMSOIL or Valvoline, API CI-4 or CJ-4, the list goes on. Which of these you choose, ultimately, makes no difference, so long as those choices will be ones that best serve the needs of YOUR application.